Explore the meaning behind jewellery's enduring styles

The Victorian era (1837 to 1901)

Victorian jewellery is renowned for its intricate details, vibrant colours, and romantic motifs. During this period, jewellery was a status symbol, reflecting the wearer’s wealth and social standing. Designs were heavily influenced by nature, with floral patterns, serpentine shapes, and insect motifs being particularly popular.

One of the most iconic symbols of the Victorian era is the snake, which represented eternal love and wisdom. Goldsmiths often incorporated snakes – intertwined with gemstones such as rubies, emeralds, and diamonds – into rings, bracelets, and necklaces.

The Art Nouveau period (1890 to 1915)

Art Nouveau jewellery embraced the natural world, with flowing, organic lines and whimsical designs inspired by flora and fauna. This style emerged as a reaction against the industrial age when people preferred to celebrate the beauty of nature and handmade crafts.

Dragonflies, butterflies, and other insects were commonly depicted in Art Nouveau jewellery, symbolising transformation and rebirth. Jewellers also incorporated stylised floral motifs, such as irises, poppies, and lilies associated with femininity, purity, and beauty.

The Art Deco era (1920 to 1935)

After the opulence of the Victorian and Art Nouveau periods, Art Deco jewellery took a more streamlined and geometric approach. Inspired by the technological advances of the machine age, Art Deco designs featured bold, angular lines, geometric shapes, and abstract patterns.

One of the most recognisable Art Deco motifs is the stepped pyramid or ziggurat design, which was influenced by ancient Egyptian and Mesopotamian architecture. These designs often incorporated precious gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies that created a striking contrast against the sleek lines and angles.

The Retro period (1935 to 1950)

As the name suggests, the Retro period drew inspiration from the past, blending elements of Art Deco with more traditional designs. Jewellery from this era often featured bold, colourful gemstones set in intricate patterns and stylised floral motifs.

One of the most iconic retro designs is the cocktail ring, which was designed to be eye-catching and statement-making. These oversized rings often featured large, vibrant gemstones such as citrine, amethyst, and topaz, surrounded by delicate metalwork and intricate patterns.

Contemporary styles (1950s to date)

In the decades following World War II, jewellery design became more eclectic and individualised, reflecting the changing cultural landscapes and social movements of the time. The 1960s ushered in a wave of bohemian, free-spirited designs, with natural materials like wood, leather, and macramé becoming popular choices for fashion jewellery.

The 1970s saw a resurgence of bold, statement pieces, with chunky gold chains, oversized gemstone rings, and vibrant enamel work taking centre stage. This era also saw the rise of iconic jewellery designers like Elsa Peretti, whose organic, sculptural designs for Tiffany & Co. became emblematic of the decade.

As the environmental movement gained traction in the 1980s and 1990s, jewellery designs began incorporating recycled materials and ethical sourcing practices. Designers like Paloma Picasso and David Yurman popularised the use of mixed metals, creating distinctive, modern pieces that celebrated individualism and self-expression.

Today, contemporary jewellery design is a melting pot of influences, blending traditional techniques with cutting-edge technology and innovative materials. Designs often reflect current social and political movements, with jewellery serving as a means of self-expression and activism.

One notable trend is the rise of sustainable and ethical jewellery, with designers focusing on responsible sourcing, eco-friendly materials, and fair labour practices. Additionally, gender-neutral and inclusive designs have become increasingly popular, challenging traditional norms and celebrating diversity.

Whether you're drawn to the timeless elegance of classic styles or the boundary-pushing designs of contemporary pieces, each era's jewellery carries a story and symbolic significance. By understanding the meaning behind these popular jewellery styles, you can appreciate the craftsmanship, cultural context, and personal expression that make these pieces truly remarkable.

Speak to Ilonka to learn more interesting facts about the jewellery and gems you own or covet.