Pearls: Nature's precious gemstones

By Emma Rowberry

Ilonka jewellers Designer Pearl Ring

To understand the reverence for pearls, we must look back to their ancient origins. The oldest known of all the gems...

The oldest known gems
Pearls are one of the oldest known gem materials, with examples found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess dating back to 420 BC. Their origins can be traced even further to ancient Viking territories, where pearls were cherished by Scandinavian royalty as early as the 5th century. The Romans called them the "queen of gems."

Oceanic treasures
These coveted jewels form naturally inside certain mollusc species like oysters and mussels. When an irritant like a grain of sand works its way into the soft inner body of the mollusc, it protects itself by coating the foreign object with layers of nacre – the iridescent crystalline substance that makes up the interior of mollusc shells.

Diving for buried riches
For thousands of years, pearl diving was one of the most dangerous professions in the world. Divers would plunge deep into the ocean, holding their breath for minutes at a time, looking for these rare treasures in the depths. In some areas, enslaved individuals were forced into this treacherous labour, working in brutal conditions.

The 1900s brought new cultivation techniques, but natural saltwater pearls remain incredibly scarce. It's estimated that only one in 10,000 wild oysters contain a pearl of value.

The queen of gems
So what gives pearls such immense worth? Beyond their beauty, it is their rarity, difficulty to get, and the variability with which they form that makes them so coveted.

Grading pearls is an art unto itself. They are evaluated on lustre, surface quality, shape, colour, and size – with larger pearls naturally being more valuable. The most prized pearls are those with a bright, mirror-like orient and an exquisite, glowing rosé colour.

Lustrous staples across cultures Pearls' mystique has transcended eras and regions. In ancient Egypt, they were buried with mummies as rare adornments to guarantee safe passage to the afterlife. In ancient Rome, pearls were a symbol of wealth and status, at one point only permitted to be worn by the nobility.

Throughout Asia, pearls have deep cultural significance in both jewellery and medicine, used as remedies to treat everything from heart disease to epilepsy. In India's Hindu tradition, pearls are deemed sacred offerings to Krishna. Japanese royalty exclusively wore pearls as a symbol of power.

A bridal jewellery classic Today, pearls remain a quintessential gemstone for bridal and feminine jewellery. Their lustrous, understated elegance is a timeless compliment to delicate features. Affluent icons from Audrey Hepburn to Jackie Kennedy have epitomised the classic, sophisticated style of pearls.

Whether sourced from the ocean's depths or modern pearl farms, these precious gems will undoubtedly remain revered for their incredible rarity, rich histories, and boundless beauty. They are nature's original gemstones – formed slowly, laboriously, and ultimately, imperfectly perfect.

Speak to Ilonka for more interesting facts about the jewellery and gems you own or covet.